liven up the festive season with a little citrus cheer

and the traditional stocking filler...

Welcome to the last Cultural Bites of 2023, and a few tasty, citrussy tips to liven up the palate over the coming days…

As the cooler air creeps over the blue Mediterranean skies, the citrus groves are awash with plump, juicy fruits, falling to the ground at the slightest hint of a breeze. An array of brightly coloured oranges, lemons, limes, mandarins and pomelos with their dark green leaves attached, give a fragrant aroma to the market stalls selling these flavoursome, winter beauties that are packed with essential vitamins and minerals to stave off the common illnesses that lie in wait at this time of year.

Botanically known as Citrus medica, the citron is the only citrus fruit to have grown in the ancient land of Israel. It was described in the Aramaic scriptures as “the fruit of the hadar tree” Leviticus 23:40, that was majestic and glorious when full of fruit. It has remained the biblical reference for all varieties of citrus, yet was never given the status of one of the seven biblical species, indigenous to the landscape. Researchers found the citron to be one of the first fruits to arrive in the Mediterranean Basin around the same time as Jesus Christ, circa 4 BCE, and is now recognised as the regions native fruit, lining the length and breadth of the Middle Eastern and Mediterranean terrain.

The orange is has become symbolic of Christmas, both as a flavouring in festive fayre and as an ancient tradition for a stocking filler. The gifting of oranges is said to have come from St. Nicholas, who gave gold spheres to three poor maidens as a means of a dowry and to prevent them living a life of hardship. In modern times, the golden spheres were represented in the form of the orange or satsuma, and given in his honour.

As a child growing up in a traditional Jewish family, we celebrated Chanukah and received our gifts then, which only on rare occasions co-incided with the Gregorian calendar and landed on 24th or 25th December. Christmas was a time to be together as a family and enjoy the customary meal of turkey, followed by a deliciously fruity and alcohol soaked pudding. Not to feel left out, the gift of a satsuma and a chocolate bar delighted us on Christmas morning, a tradition that I continued with my two boys even when the delight for the satsuma waned in preference for a more tangible gift…

Synonymous with both winter and the festive season, citrus is also a key component of all Middle Eastern cooking, adding fragrance, acidity and an individual flavour profile, to both savoury and sweet dishes.

Most salads are livened up with a citrussy dressing, sweetened with date syrup or honey. Segments of pomelo, grapefruit or mandarins make for a light and tasty starter when paired with the aniseed flavour of roasted fennel, bitterness of chicory and some salty feta cheese. For a refreshing ending to any meal try a colourful blood orange salad with pomegranate seeds and some toasted almonds for crunch, sweetened with a drizzle of orange blossom sugar syrup.

Poultry and citrus is a classic combination, so maybe go for a lighter stuffing with lemon zest and plenty of fresh herbs this year, or the traditional orange sauce with duck. Butter glazed carrots with orange zest, thyme and a touch of orange blossom honey is a delightful accompaniment to any roast meat or fish, and for a real citrus burst sprinkle some sumac, the bright red Middle Eastern spice over potatoes or chips towards the end of roasting… delicious!

A little grating of citrus zest is a must in mince pies, and a soft, moist orange cake strewn with flaked almonds makes for a perfect ending to any meal. I am a great fan of the legendary Claudia Roden’s ‘Gateaux a l’Orange’ from her Book of Jewish Food influenced by the Sephardic culinary culture of Iberia and North Africa. With only six ingredients, it is so easy to make and produces an opulent and moreish dessert every time.

And lets not forget the warming drink of mulled wine or cider, laced with aromatic spices of cinnamon, cloves and nutmeg and a punchy citrus burst of orange and lemon slices… the very essence of the seasonal party drink.

This has been a difficult year for so many of us and sadly there are still many challenges ahead going into a new year, however, I sincerely hope that this festive period will bring some light, hope and peace to everyone, everywhere.

Seasons Greetings!